BC Tavern is a work in progress. Less than a year ago, it was Zoot, a finedining institution relocated from Austin to Bee Cave. But when Zoot's whitetablecloth vibe didn't gel with suburbanites, its owners gave the restaurant a makeover, renaming and remodeling it as the more casual BC Tavern. Things still feel transitional, though: TVs blare in one corner while candles flicker in another; fine art adorns some walls and framed posters line others; white linens remain on some tables as high-top bistro tables sit starkly naked.

The scenery may seem disjointed, but the food is spot-on. Most dishes fall into the “comfort food/pub grub” category, with Chef Matt Taylor giving them a sophisticated twist. Nachos, the obligatory bar staple, are dressed up with shredded duck and sprinkled with Catija cheese and cilantro. Ceasar salad is tossed in a lip-smacking dressing and topped with optional duck confit. And the market salad is a delicious contrast of tastes and textures: bitter chicory lettuce topped wtih slivers of sweet pear and tart apple.

French onion soup achieves the desired crouton/Gruyere ratio atop a rich, complex broth. Zoot was famous for its roasted chicken, and that has wisely remained on the tavern's menu: a succulent bone-in breast with crispy bronze skin and a savory tarragon jus. Side dishes shine, too, like perfect al dente haricots verts, simply steamed kale and yummy glazed carrots.

For dessert, pastry chef Jessica Armstrong elevates warm flourless chocolate cake to new heights. Its light crust gives way to a molten dark chocolate center, surrounded by caramel, chocolate ganache, fresh whipped cream and a pinch of black valcano sea salt to create a sweet/salty harmony.

This is a tavern, after all, and the bar should not be overlooked. A cozy and inviting space, it's filled with a melange of jolly regulars, canoodling couples and even a family or two. Bartender Jeremy Corn recently relocated to Austin from Virginia and brought with him a bag of tricks worth sampling. Like a wizard behind the bar, he whips up top-quality artisan cocktails using homemade elixirs and tinctures. The wine and beer list offers something for everyone, from pedestrian crowd-pleasers to obscure, hard-to-find treasures.

Missteps are few. Slices of flavorless grilled hanger steak arrived swimming in demi-glace and accompanied by soggy French fries bathed in oily béarnaise. Several dishes lacked promised ingredients such as tomatoes on nachos and hazelnuts on salad and dessert. And although our service was courteous and helpful, we wondered if they were understaffed, as our server began disappearing for long absences and food delivery lagged.

BC Tavern is in the capable hands of veteran chef/owners Stewart Scruggs and Mark Paul (they also own Austin’s highly acclaimed Wink), and I know they’ll iron out the minor kinks. Undoubtedly the folks of Bee Cave will be enjoying food and drink here for many years to come, regardless of the linens (or not) on their table.